Mark Cho and the team of well-dressed men behind the Armoury know a thing or two about hunting down the finest in men’s fashion—stocking its New York and Hong Kong boutiques with some of the top, and often thoroughly under-the-radar, purveyors of classic tailoring and handmade shoes. They’re experts in finding the kind of quietly luxurious bespoke suits and wear-for-a-lifetime coats that you’ll see walking down Wall Street or adorning men meeting in the lobby of the Peninsula Hong Kong. But as its fall collection attests, the retailer’s buttoned-up aesthetic looks just as good in the boardroom as it does in the forests upstate—where things are a little bit more rumpled, a little bit more hard-wearing.
It’s that “gentleman off-duty” vibe that the Armoury’s fall collection perfects. The 33-piece line, designed both in-house and in collaboration with some of its top-performing brands, focuses on pieces with a more casual bent—think laid-back tailoring and luxe sportswear.
A prime example of this dressing down is the new Model 11 Sport Coat ($1,150), which takes Japanese brand Ring Jacket’s typically sharp blazers and loosens them up a bit, rounding the shoulders and adding a patch pocket at the breast as well as hunting-jacket-inspired hip pockets. Available in navy and heather gray, it’s the kind of blazer that will become a workhorse in your wardrobe—easily dressed up with structured wool trousers and a tie, or down when thrown over one of the collection’s cozy sweaters (from $250), part of the Armoury’s new Borders knitwear line.
Elsewhere, the collection leans harder into design codes of country living. A thick suede and shearling coat ($1,900), modeled after the one Alain Delon sports in 1965’s Once a Thief, is designed to keep you warm on frosty fall mornings in Hudson Valley but is long enough to work when layered over tailoring back in the city. And come November, the Armoury will add its take on the shooting jacket to the collection. The water-resistant cotton gabardine style was designed in collaboration with Japanese outerwear brand Coherence and comes complete with plenty of pockets for holding your shotgun shells after sessions of clay-pigeon shooting—or, you know, for your smartphone on days when snaps of the inside of your office is all you’re likely to be shooting.