Tom Ford may have made his name with ultra-flashy, pheromone-charged collections for Gucci in the ’90s, but lately, fashion’s favorite provocateur has been turning out menswear with a quieter—dare we say understated—appeal. For this fall collection, Ford drew inspiration from the frills-free style of Richard Gere in American Gigolo—think strong-shouldered suits and roomy trousers.
But the most compelling idea Ford proposes for fall is tonal dressing, with suits, coats, shirts, and ties all worn in coordinating hues. The palette is a study in hushed neutrals, from charcoal to taupe. The overall effect is a look that’s polished without looking “done,” and it manages to breathe new life into timeless silhouettes.
The key to Ford’s monotone style is texture. Note how a finely pinstriped anthracite suit is layered with a heather-gray cotton-flannel shirt and wool tie; all are variations on the same shade of gray but rendered in different textiles to add dimension. See how a taupe suede balmacaan overcoat ($6,490) worn atop a taupe silk suit, shirt, and knit-silk tie highlight the various fabric treatments—details that might go unnoticed in a look composed of contrasting colors and prints.
The tonal look whispers a cool, calm confidence, and in our increasingly frenetic age, that kind of sartorial Zen is especially appealing.