The bespoke suit has long been a symbol of sophistication, style, and status. Now, the age-old art of hand tailoring is having a modern renewal in Manhattan, and a few young highbrow shops are paving the way. To help you find the perfect fit in the Big Apple, we are spotlighting four of New York City’s top tailors that you might not have heard of.
In the West Village, master tailor Jake Mueser marries heritage and modernity at his bespoke shop, J. Mueser. “We believe true men’s style is all about a balance of virtues,” he explains. “Tradition and individuality. Subtlety and swagger. Ancient cloths in edgy cuts.” Mueser established the company in 2008 and opened up shop two years later (originally as Doyle Mueser), crafting garments in-house from fine cloths curated from across the globe. The house—whose signature style features a natural shoulder, a high-suppressed waist, and wide high-gorged lapels—requires five weeks for made-to-measure (from $2,550) and nine weeks for bespoke (from $3,550) suits.
Taking inspiration from the 1920s, ’30s, ’50s, and ’70s—in both design and attitude—sartorialist Manolo Costa aims to seamlessly connect the modern man to the glamour of yesteryear at his bespoke house on the Upper East Side. Founded in 2011, Manolo Costa New York sources wools and cottons from such master clothiers as Loro Piana, Carlo Barbera, and Vitale Barberis Canonico for its bespoke suits (from $2,795), which are delivered in six to eight weeks. Surrounded by antiques and mementos at the appointment-only shop, patrons might too find inspiration from the past. To encourage the sentiment, all of the store’s treasures—including the original Edward Wormley chairs—are available for purchase.
Across town, P. Johnson offers a fresh perspective on bespoke tailoring, bidding farewell to stiff formalities and replacing them with cool comfort. The signature suit of the nearly nine-year-old Australian company founded by Patrick Johnson is ultra-light, flexible, and crafted from soft, supple fabrics (also sourced from some of the world’s top textile mills). The relaxed aura of the garments is manifested at the bright, laidback SoHo showroom, as well as in the new shop-in-shop at Barneys New York, Downtown. Each custom suit (from $1,650) is constructed at P. Johnson’s atelier in Italy, and takes at least six weeks for delivery.
For Michael Andrews Bespoke, the perfect suit effortlessly reflects the lifestyle, ambitions, and passion of the man wearing it. The custom-tailoring shop, which first opened its doors in 2006, is rooted in its namesake and founder’s deep respect for tradition and craftsmanship. Guests of the NoHo East Village store choose from a sprawling menu of about 10,000 fabrics from around the world, including Super 100s and 200s. After an extensive process of measuring, patternmaking, and basted fitting, each Michael Andrews suit (from $1,795) is handcrafted by a single master tailor for more than 40 hours, and is delivered in six to 10 weeks.