Berluti is hitting its stride.
The Parisian brand’s strong showing on the runway in recent years could reasonably make people forget the label started off as a bootmaker. Its latest launch is here to correct that. Part of its City lineup of footwear, the Twist shoe is a modern fusion of a traditional boat shoe upper and a deeply-treaded, boot-like sole. Its a unique combination that takes from previous catwalk styles as well as the house’s gentlemanly aesthetic.
The somewhat rugged style is available in two iterations: one constructed with a Venezia leather upper and another with a monogrammed canvas upper trimmed by patinated detailing. Though very thick and capable of long wear, the exterior sole is molded to be remarkably flexible and lightweight so as not to impede your regular gait. All of the leather components of the monogrammed version are hand-stitched so they too remain supple and are able to contour to the individual shape of your foot over time.
Of course, when it comes to signatures, the one most associated with Berluti is the richly burnished finish that’s been famous for well over a century. That’s where the Venezia leather version truly shines. Its dark, caramel-colored hide is versatile enough to wear with everything from jeans to tailored trousers yet remains distinct through its deep polish that darkens toward the edge of every panel. The finish is hand-applied on every pair and the results give the typical boat shoe a welcome refresh and more elegant look. Ditto for the rivet studs along the collar that nod to Berluti’s artisanal roots.
The expansion of its already considerable footwear range bodes well for Berluti. Part of luxury conglomerate LVMH, the brand has also recently expanded its physical retail presence with a new flagship store along New York City’s tony 57th Street.