Nothing Bina Goenka does is simple. Instead, the self-taught designer painstakingly brings her opulent designs to life, often crisscrossing the globe in search of the perfect stones. And, as a recent collection featuring ultra-rare queen conch pearls attests, her one-of-a-kind pieces can take years to complete. So it’s to be expected then that her first prêt (or ready-to-wear) collection—which will be available exclusively through Net-a-Porter in November—is far from restrained.
What is unexpected, however, is just how ornate the resulting collection is. “I’ve not changed the way we make this jewelry collection nor taken anything away,” Goenka explains. That means each pair of earrings—which range from drop earrings dripping in a blinding mix of baguette, cushion, and round-cut diamonds to an asymmetrical pair of floral earrings that mix delicate ruby petals (elsewhere, they’ve been cut to look like juicy pomegranate seeds) with slices of mother of pearl—has been handmade by the same artisans that make her one-off high jewelry pieces for private clients.
Though Net-a-Porter stocks a solid selection of high jewelry brands that employ similarly complex techniques to bring their jewels to life—including names like De Grisogono and Buccellati—Goenka’s collection is sure to stand out in a series of more demure diamond-laden designs. Each piece is meant to honor her Indian heritage, pairing unapologetically vibrant emeralds, tigereye, tasavorites, and amethysts in eye-catchingly playful combinations in a way that most designers reserve for their more labor-intensive haute joaillerie collections.
“The feeling that the very best should be unattainable is something I set out to change in this prêt collection,” Goenka says. Of course, the pieces are still meant to be precious and are only available in limited quantities. But, she notes that her earrings are meant to be slotted right alongside the rest of the wearer’s wardrobe, because everyday wearability never has to mean basic.