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Insider Secrets: 10 Under-the-Radar Designers Every Jewelry Lover Needs to Know

From downtown Los Angeles to the streets of London and beyond, these artists are breaking new ground with their incomparable creations…

Bina Goenka earrings

Sylvia Furmanovich

Silvia Furmanovich imparts the vibrant spirit of her native São Paulo to her lavish, colorful creations —stunning adornments that reveal her talent for using unexpected materials. Her marquetry collection features sustainably harvested Brazilian woods set with gemstones, while some of her latest pieces bear seashells and feathers. (silviafurmanovich.com)

Sylvia Furmanovich

 

Fabio Salini

Fabio Salini


Yves Spinelli

Yves Spinelli


Bina Goenka

Bina Goenka’s creations have been in demand for years among Bollywood stars, and news of her talent is spreading fast. Her fearless approach to such uncommon materials as black coral and conch pearls has led to extraordinary jewelry, including her latest collection, which centers on the elusive pink conch pearl. A criminal lawyer turned self-taught designer, she divides her time between her ateliers in Mumbai and London. (binagoenka.com)

Bina Goenka earrings


Sylvia Yepremian

Sylvia Yepremian


Fernando Jorge

The São Paulo–born designer Fernando Jorge has set the jewelry industry abuzz over his fluid creations, whose sensual lines recall owing water or twisting vines. Jorge grew up as an avid drawer and honed his design skills at London’s Central Saint Martins arts and design college. Now 37, he is based in London and gravitates toward vibrant gems, such as opal, ruby, and amethyst. (fernandojorge.co.uk)

Fernando Jorge


Lauren Adriana

Considered a modern master by many a luminary in the jewelry world, Lauren Adriana combines exceptional gemstones in a painterly way, in creations such as the rubellite-and-pink-sapphire ring and spinel-and-diamond earrings shown here. Each of the 30-year-old designer’s pieces is unique and never to be repeated. (at Fred Leighton, fredleighton.com)

Lauren Adriana

 

Hedy Martinelli

Though the boutique of Hedy Martinelli lies on the Via Fontanella Borghese in the heart of Rome, it remains for many a hidden gem, perhaps because its namesake designer creates fewer

than 100 pieces each year. Her statement-making jewelry incorporates antique and modern-day chain mail as well as unexpected mixes of elements, such as carved cameos and colored stones. (hedymartinelli.com)

Hedy Martinelli

Debora Masciave


Sabine Roemer

When truly
personal jewelry is in order, master goldsmith Sabine Roemer delivers. A graduate of Germany’s Pforzheim goldsmith and watchmaking school, Roemer offers a bespoke service that infuses age-old craftsmanship with a contemporary sensibility. Each year she accepts a very limited number of commissions, then sketches the designs, sources the gems, and hand-forges the pieces in her London atelier. (sabineroemer.com)

Sabine Roemer


Alessandro Sabbatini

Alessandro Sabbatini started his Sabba collection in Paris just 3 years ago, when he was 26, and already his one-of-a-kind creations are in high demand. The former Cartier designer makes only 30 to 40 pieces a year. Think flowing jade-and-emerald earrings that are voluminous in scale but light and fluid on a woman. (at FD Gallery, fd-gallery.com

Alessandro Sabbatini

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