As cofounder and chief brand officer of Moda Operandi, a designer fashion website, Lauren Santo Domingo spends her days searching for style trends and emerging designers. She also has a particularly keen eye for jewelry, and here are her favorite new finds.
How have women’s tastes/and or desire in jewelry changed in the past year?
I think we’re all far more open to vintage jewelry. Currently, I’m leaning towards the selections of late ’70s and early ’80s Bulgari, Marina B, and David Webb. Baroque pearls paired with retro gold feels very current as well. Sophie Buhai, Mizuki, and Assael are all getting it right. There’s something about the imperfect baroque pearls that feels so modern; it’s a departure from the traditional single strand of pearls, which is, decidedly, not modern.
What are the key jewelry items now?
Girandole earrings have proven to be a timeless classic. Designers continue to experiment and expand on [the form]. I love those from Sylvie Corbelin in fun, fresh colors like pink sapphires, turquoise and citrine.
Bold gold—think Krystle Carrington in Dynasty. I love chain necklaces, the bigger the better. Those shy of making a statement can opt for a humble hoop.
Diamond rivière necklaces. We field a lot of requests for diamond rivières but lately noticed that women are coming back for more, to layer up.
3. Who are the designers to watch?
Tatiana Verstraeten. She was mentored by Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel for many years and just ventured out solo with a collection of exquisite haute jewelry. Her pieces are cleverly engineered—they’re ultralight and sit on the body in really interesting ways.
Nikos Koulis. I love his latest collection, “Feelings.” It’s all about texture and movement, with a flexible gold chain interwoven with baguette and round-cut diamonds. It feels like a very modern way to do the ’80s trend.
Sophie Buhai. I first fell in love with her on Instagram. She’s from LA and does that ’90s minimalist thing so well: silver, hoops, chains. Put it this way, I’m actually considering wearing an 18-karat-gold anklet this summer.
4. What just doesn’t sell anymore and why?
Right now fashion is about oversized relaxed silhouettes, and therefore everyday jewelry must adjust accordingly. Now, jewelry is more sculptural and oversized as opposed to personal jewelry of years past. For me, I would never wear jewelry with the names of my children on it, I think it’s strange, so I’m happy to see that trend fade.