Experts Talk Must-See Designs from This Week’s Inaugural GemGenève Fair

This week, the first-ever Geneva International Gem & Jewellery show (also known as GemGenève) debuted at the Palexpo convention center just north of Geneva. Led by Thomas Faerber, owner of the Faerber Collection, and gem dealer Ronny Totah, the three-day show spotlights inventive jewelry—both contemporary and antique—from 147 exhibitors who hail from more than a dozen countries. The event aims to draw a broad audience, from gem dealers, auction experts, and historians to amateur collectors and everyday jewelry lovers.

As the fair rolls forward, industry experts are optimistic about its future. “[GemGenève] will further enhance Geneva’s position as a major hub in the worldwide jewelry and precious-stones markets for amateurs and professionals alike,” David Bennett, worldwide chairman of Sotheby’s international jewelry division, told The New York Times.

Participants possess a range of skills and include highly recognizable names like Robert Procop and Symbolic & Chase as well as smaller family-owned firms; contemporary creators like Cora Sheibani and Nadia Morgenthaler; and brand-new talents like Towe Norlen and Caspita’s Arlène Bonnant.

“GemGenève is an endless box of treasures,” says author and jewelry historian Vivienne Becker, who names the Roman designer Fabio Salini as one of her favorite innovators showing at the event. “Salini works with carbon fiber and sets it with diamonds to create striking, modernist monochrome jewels.”

As for must-see up-and-comers? “Emmanuel Tarpin, a very young new talent, does extraordinary sculpture works in aluminum combined with colored gemstones and uses special techniques to add color to the aluminum,” notes Totah. Additional must-sees include Swiss jeweler Nadia Morgenthaler’s rock-crystal chandelier earrings, floral creations from Moscow-based Ninotchka Jewels, and Alexander Tenzo’s Little Prince–inspired brooch, which features a detailed intaglio.

GemGenève is a ticketed event and is open to the public until May 13.