The death of Barney’s, once a trend-making (and breaking) fashion retailer, has been a slow and nostalgia-filled process. But the end has finally arrived: The brand’s flagship store on New York’s Madison Avenue will officially shutter this Sunday, along with its other remaining shops around the country.
WWD surveyed the scene this week to document the retailer’s final days. From the looks of it, the end of the department store has been bleak, as garish “Everything Must Go” signs flash in windows where Prada’s latest was once displayed. The newspaper found the massive store essentially hollowed out with empty makeup and fragrance counters, suspended hanging racks floating empty beneath some of fashion’s biggest names.
That scene is a far cry from the store’s legendary heyday, when the Barneys felt like a kind of cultural hub to those that worked there. Gene Pressman, a member of the store’s founding family and its creative director from 1972 to 1998, told WWD: “It felt like we were in the theatrical business, creating theater, because in those days fashion was the leader—it influenced music, motion pictures, it influenced art—it was the impetus of everything.”
Other fashion-world figures have echoed that sentiment amid news of the store’s closure. As culture writer Cintra Wilson wrote on this site, for certain New Yorkers the loss of Barneys represents more than just the end of a high-end department store. “To devoted fashionistas, the demise of Barneys has been a blow almost comparable to hearing that David Bowie died again, or watching someone chain saw a Steinway in half to use the wood for a bonfire,” she wrote.
This is not the first time Barneys faced financial difficulty. The retailer also filed for bankruptcy in 1996, but it managed to stay afloat for 23 years more years until once again filing for Chapter 11 last year. The second time around the retailer struggled to find a buyer until Authentic Brands Group snapped it up in November, essentially for scrap. After the purchase, it quickly became clear that ABG did not acquire the store to restore it to solvency but rather to license the brand name and sell off everything off it could.
At its peak, Barneys was indeed a trendsetting hub for fashion, as well as a New York institution. It was the first department store in the US to import brands like Giorgio Armani, Azzedine Alaïa, Versace and Comme des Garçons. Its shop floor acted as a kind of staging ground for the most daring brands to introduce themselves to a fashion-savvy public. If a label succeeded at Barneys, it knew that countless other retailers would open their doors.
Mateless shoes, empty racks and beat-up boxes are not the ending tableau most would’ve imagined for Barneys. But seismic shifts in brick-and-mortar retail don’t make exceptions for legacy. Soon enough, a new tenant at will take over the Madison Avenue space that Barneys occupied for decades. Whatever success they enjoy, we doubt they’ll be as memorable.