A complete calendar strikes a balance between a basic date display and a more advanced calendar complication, and it often marks the difference between a clean dial and a cluttered one. While a triple calendar will feature a day, date, and month indicator, it is the addition of a moonphase that gives the impression of completeness. The triple and complete calendars are more accessible watches than their cousins with perpetual calendar mechanisms or other astronomical indicators. And while this will often lend them to a steel case and sober dial, there are always exceptions.
With their 2018 Traditionnelle Complete Calendar “Excellence Platine“ (EUR 69,000) Vacheron Constantin has achieved such an exception, with a functional aesthetic highlighted by signature flair.
Lets’ start with the functional part. The round case and straight lugs make for a strong mid-century silhouette. The dauphine hands, applied hour markers, and dial layout is beautifully balanced and elegant, while the rail track printed chapter ring and moonphase increments enhance legibility and utility. The watch houses a 308 part automatic calibre 2460 QCL running at 4Hz and with a reserve life of around 40hrs.
Then you have the excellence: A 950 platinum case (41mm) and deployant buckle add heft and extravagance. Platinum thread is even incorporated into the strap stitching, providing a highlight along the deep blue alligator leather. But this heavyweight precious metal is not restricted to the exterior of the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Excellence Platine; the dial is a solid piece of sand-blasted platinum as is the engraved moonphase disc beneath its aperture at 6 o’clock.
The aforementioned calibre 2460 of the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Excellence Platine bears the Geneva Seal, and its 22 karat gold rotor can be seen from the caseback, as can the edition number of the watch. There will only be 100 made, and it is easy to envisage 100 connoisseurs willing to pay the price for a watch that has elegance, style, and a light touch of heavy opulence.