A year ago, Breguet introduced a redesigned Marine collection of sporty timepieces inspired by the naval clocks master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet made after he was appointed official chronometer-maker to the French Royal Navy in 1815.
Unlike the titanium versions, which come with sunburst slate gray dials in gold, the new precious styles feature engine-turned dials—silver for the rose gold editions and blue for white gold.
All three pieces share aesthetic and ergonomic details such as sculpted lugs, fluted cases, ultra-legible dials, luminescent moon-tipped hands, luminescent five-minute markers, integrated bracelets (in which the first link is attached directly to the case), alternating polished and glossy links and dial motifs designed to evoke cresting waves. Mechanically speaking, all three pieces also boast silicon-enhanced automatic movements.
That’s where the similarities end. The Marine 5517 is a 40 mm watch with a simple three-hand display and date window; both rose and white gold editions retail for $49,100. The Marine Chronographe 5527 is a 42.3 mm model with the capacity to measure short time intervals; it retails for $56,300.
The 40 mm Marine Alarme Musicale 5547, which retails for $60,300 in rose or white gold, stands out for its unusual alarm complication. (The caliber of the Marine 5547 also allows the display of a second time zone and date.)
The complicated watch features a push button at 8 o’clock to activate or deactivate the alarm. When the function is enabled, a marine bell appears in an opening at 12 o’clock, beneath the Breguet signature. Look closely at the tip of the second hand and you’ll see it forms a “B.” Is that maritime lingo for “Bravo” or is the “B” for Breguet? We’ll never know!