It’s a sign of the times. Bejeweled homages to the 12 symbols that comprise the Western zodiac are everywhere this spring — in weighty gold medallions, irreverent gem-set pendants, lustrous signet rings and deluxe charm bracelets.
Briony Raymond, a bespoke jeweler in New York who introduced her signature Zodiac collection in 2019, has a theory as to why. “There are few forms of ancient mysticism that still captivate us as much as astrology,” she says. “Many of us have looked to our star signs as a way to prophesize our future and encourage us on the hardest of days. I see wearing your sign as a way to keep this sense of comfort from the stars closest to you and it was with this ethos in mind that I was inspired to design a collection of luxurious everyday talismans incorporating the signs of the zodiac.”
Of course the pandemic has only underscored people’s appreciation for the talismanic properties of fine jewelry, with sales of meaningful jewels laden with symbolism rising as a result. Jemma Wynne designers Jenny Klatt and Stephanie Wynne Lalin said that over the past year they have focused on more personal and sentimental pieces — and that the time felt right to debut their new zodiac collection.
“Rich in weight and texture inspired by the ’70s, our deeply personal zodiacs are said to reflect our own characteristics,” says Wynne Lalin. “We love symbolic pieces and our zodiacs capture the complex nature of astrology that can be truly transformative.”
It doesn’t hurt that the 12 astrological signs, from Aries to Pisces, all feature their own, graphically interesting symbols. New York-based Brent Winston, the designer behind Brent Neale, uses those symbols to great effect in her new series of gemstone Mushroom pendants, each a chic — and cheeky — tribute to the trippy powers of astrology. Sign us up!
Pisces Zodiac Medallion in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds, $8,800; Briony Raymond
Leo Zodiac Signet ring in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds, $7,500; Briony Raymond
Large Libra pendant in 18-karat yellow gold with diamond pave, $10,500; Jemma Wynne
Zodiac pendant in 18-karat yellow gold with single center diamond, $5,225; Established
Zodiac Coin ring in 14-karat yellow gold with diamonds, $2,050; Mateo
Large Zodiac Coin Necklace in 14-karat yellow gold with diamonds, $3,000; Mateo
Major Sun Sign Medallion in 18-karat yellow gold with emeralds and diamond, $7,950; Harwell Godfrey
Libra Zodiac Mushroom necklace in 18-karat yellow gold with opal and chrysoprase, $7,450; Brent Neale
Capricorn Zodiac Mushroom necklace in 18-karat yellow gold with garnet and rhodochrosite, $7,450; Brent Neale
Personalizable amulet engraved with zodiac sign in 14-karat yellow gold with diamond on 18” chain; from $1,002; Minka Jewels