We have lift off! Omega has upgraded its Speedmaster Moonwatch, made famous on Buzz Aldrin’s wrist during the first walk on the lunar surface in 1969, with the first new movement in 50 years. The caliber 1861 has aborted its mission and handed the controls over to the co-axial escapement, Master Chronometer-certified caliber 3861. The new movement means it is now equipped to withstand magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss and its certification indicates new levels of precision and performance. It took four years for the company to produce a movement that could meet these standards, while matching the dimensions of the previous caliber. It is, of course, also approved by NASA for space flights.
But that’s not the only update. It also comes with a new integrated and fully brushed bracelet that sports five links per row and comes with a polished clasp with a satin-finished cover and applied logo. The new bracelet comes with the models that use Hesalite glass, a form of acrylic known for its strength and optical clarity that is flatter than sapphire crystal. Those models are also offered on a nylon strap. Clients that opt for the sapphire crystal glass versions will have a bracelet that is polished and brushed on the inter-links but will also have the option to choose a leather strap.
Dialing in on every detail, Omega also made subtle changes to the minute track, which is now split by three divisions instead of five, as seen on previous editions. Hardcore moonwatch aficionados will also be pleased to find small nuances like the famous dot over 90 (also known as DON) and a dot diagonal to 70 on the anodized aluminum bezel ring. Previously, post-1969 models had the dot next to the 90. It also includes the step dial and double bevel caseback features of the first iterations of the iconic timekeeper.
The new collection comes in stainless steel ($6,300 on a bracelet and $5,950 on a nylon strap), 18-karat Sedna gold ($34,800 on a bracelet and $24,600 on a leather strap) or 18-karat Canopus gold ($45,300 on a bracelet and $30,400 on a leather strap). Sedna gold is a form of rose gold that blends gold, copper and palladium, while Canopus gold is a form of white gold with a higher brilliance, whiteness and longevity. Both alloys are proprietary of Omega. All models are 42 mm in size and come with 50 hours of power reserve.