Two new programs from the Swiss luxury watchmaker Zenith suggest the best way to move forward is by honoring the past.
With its new Defy 21 Spectrum watches, the brand is taking an innovative approach to the resurgence of brightly colored wristwear—just in time for spring. While some of the pieces on offer might look like candy, the lineup was inspired by the natural hues of different wavelengths of light, hence the name Spectrum. Each of the five vividly colored watches in this collection will feature the El Primero 21 movement, Zenith’s revolutionary 1/100th of a second chronograph caliber that beats at the astonishing rate of 50Hz (360,000 VpH). The 44 mm models are limited to 10 pieces each, which will come in a 44 mm stainless steel case set with 288 brilliant-cut white diamonds.

Zenith has sought to visualize the notion of frequencies through color and light. Courtesy of Zenith
As if that weren’t enough, the bezels of each piece will be set with 44 baguette-cut precious stones, selected to match the vibrantly colored components of the movement and rubber straps: Green tsavorites for the green edition, amethyst for the purple model, black spinels for the black edition and striking orange and blue sapphires for the orange and blue watches, respectively.
Aligned with this forward-thinking release, the watchmaker is also looking back on its past achievements and reviving sales of its highly sought-after vintage models such as the A384, A385, A386 and A3818. Through its new Zenith Icons program, the company will source, verify, restore and sell these models exclusively at its boutiques. The company will offer these refurbished pieces with 3-year warranties and “passports” that help collectors track their lifespans.

Icon model, A385 was used for Zenith’s advertisements and photoshoots in 1969. Courtesy of Zenith
Zenith isn’t the first Swiss watch brand to launch a certified pre-owned program, and as long as collectors take advantage of the secondary market, it probably won’t be the last. Just last year, H.Moser & Cie launched its own website for selling certified pre-owned watches. And in 2018, TrueFacet began working with watch brands (Zenith included) to bring an added level of certification to its vintage and pre-owned watch offering.
If you’re in the market—the bejeweled Defy 21 Spectrum series will sell exclusively at Zenith boutiques for $35,900, starting June 2021. You can find more information on purchasing a Zenith Icon timepiece from the brand’s website.