French, Progressive

A Taste of Two Countries

David Bouley discovers that Yoshiaki Takazawa’s cuisine transcends cultural and culinary divides. David Bouley has been at the leading edge of the U.S. dining scene for nearly 30 years. When he opened his first restaurant, Bouley, in the Tribeca neighborhood of New York City in 1987, he became one of the original chefs to introduce nouvelle cuisine and the […]

Balancing Act

In Nicolas Delaroque, Nancy Oakes finds a chef who achieves the perfect poise between cutting-edge ideas and soulful French cooking. When Nancy Oakes opened San Francisco’s L’Avenue in 1988, she was one of the first chefs to seriously reconsider American cuisine. Her plates were complex and well-integrated compositions whose side dishes took center stage. A grilled veal […]

Savior of Sauces

Yannick Alléno is reinventing French gastronomy one béarnaise at a time. “Where,” Yannick Alléno asks, “can you get a béarnaise in Paris?”  Alléno, one of the great 21st-century chefs, misses the era when French restaurant kitchens were ruled by sauciers—the specialists who do nothing but make sauces—and when French haute cuisine ruled the world of […]