There are many ways to end up with an unsavory stogie in Havana, but only a few legitimate avenues for obtaining the real deal. Rule No. 1: Skip the black market. “The Cuban government owns and controls every aspect of cigar production and distribution,” says Cuba Educational Travel’s Laverty. “There are no private growers, producers, or sellers. There are no sales or discounts.” To assure that you’re getting an authentic smoke, head to certified cigar boutiques at government-run hotels like the Meliá Cohiba and Iberostar Parque Central. Or drop in at the shop at El Aljibe restaurant, where the cigar sommelier, Leticia Cabrera Alonso, is one of Havana’s leading experts. (She can even identify the brand of a cigar blindfolded.) Wherever you go, look for the telltale sign of a true Cuban—the government’s hologram seal—on the box.